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Restaurant-Reviews
Buckinghamshire Life Review (Autumn 2008)
Back to the future
Food and drink editor Richard Cawthorne enjoys fine food in historic surroundings at Rossini in Wendover
Above: Rossini
WALKING into Rossini in Wendover is like entering a film set. The Three Musketeers springs to mind, but we are already 100 years out since the inn and stables that became Rossini date from the early 16th century. Henry VIII was on the throne of England and Louis XIII had yet to succeed in France. Nevertheless, the image persists as you move from the neat high street into a world of ancient oak beams and warm red walls.
There is already a welcoming feel in the air and it intensifies as you take in the modern accoutrements of polished solid wooden chairs, clean blue tablecloths and fully dressed tables. In deference to its origins, the building boasts a small pub-type bar opposite the entrance, but Rossini bills itself as a classical Mediterranean restaurant and that’s where the emphasis lies.
This is the domain of Javier Varela and chef de cuisine Mike Cook, who is in charge of the classical English, European and Mediterranean menu. Javier is off when I visit, but we are greeted by his son, James, who walks us through to the Hayloft section of the building, complete with a splendid and ancient fireplace. We bag Table 17 by the window, which is the one to ask for, though James says it’s in demand, so book early.
Rossini offers a table d’hote at £22 for two courses or £25.95 for three, but as this is a first visit we elect to go a la carte and give Mr Cook a chance to show his stuff. Of the starters, fresh asparagus (£8.50) commands attention, while my other half chooses the grilled scallops wrapped in pancetta on a mixed leaf salad with balsamic dressing (also £8.50).
Having had a similar dish elsewhere a few days before, I can vouch for the plump and flavourful Rossini scallops being far ahead of their rivals, while the asparagus, served on an artfully angled plate to make the most of the accompanying clarified butter, is deliciously simple and simply delicious.
To follow, madam chooses the scaloppines of veal with a lemon and white wine sauce (£17.50), which she triumphantly declares is the best she has ever had, while I go for the half a roast Aylesbury duck in a
rhubarb coulis (£18.50), of which there is quite a lot but every mouthful is well worth the journey.
If you have room, which we didn’t, dessert offerings include pecan pie with honeycomb ice cream, Belgian chocolate and hazelnut cheesecake, and warm cherry and almond tart with amaretto ice cream.
The quality of the food is matched by the service, which is attentive and polite. James is a perfect host and it is clear there is a lot more to Rossini than we have time to explore on just one visit.
USEFUL TO KNOW
The total cost of this dinner for two was £67.05 including two glasses of wine and two coffees, plus a tip, which was optional.
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